Now i describe my firsts works with autotype i have purchased in november :

The first thing to do is cut a piece of paper with a cutter.The dimensions of this piece is equal to that of the image surrounded by a black opaque border at least 5 mm.
I realize a positive grayscale on a transparent inkjet with a black opaque frame around the image
The piece of gelatined paper is soaked in a bath of potassium dichromate to 3% to a low temperature (about 13 ° c) for 3 ½ minutes. it is important to avoid dust and air bubbles, so as soon as the paper is relaxed by the bath I put it in reverse in the plastic tray,gelatined red face down and under the level of liquide.After this bath sensitizing, I go out of the tray to drain a bit and I laying flat on a surface of plexiglass defatted well by ethanol.You have to wait overnight for drying.When it is dry, the paper just takes off and resumed its roll and separated without problem of Plexiglas .
Now this paper is sensitive to light and we can keep away from light as the photographic paper maybe during some days.
I have prepared a copper plate of 15 x 18 cm.well degreased and I applied over a thin rosin with my aquatint box then melted by heat.For a such size of copper the surrounded picture is 13,5 x 18,5 cm
As soon as the plate is cooled I keep it in a tray with cold water and a few drops of ethanol and a little dishwashing liquid rinse for several hours or more if necessary.The goal is to have a film of water on all the surface of metal.

I expose to UV light using mercury vapor lamp 300-watt from a distance of 35 cm.On a flat surface I put the paper sensitized side on top, then the transparency with printed side in contact with paper and over that all a glass.
For the moment, I made 3 experiences with this paper and I am looking for the best range for the exposure time.
I think this time is between 6 and 7 minutes because of my lamp and exposure distance.
It is certainly useful to have a scale densitometry or stouffer, but I realized that the last step (etching) is more important to get all half-tones.
Once the exposure is over, we must proceed as soon as possible with the adhering of paper on copper plate.
I made several searches for this step and I finally came to understand how to achieve a reliable and reproducible
result.
I used a tray to moisturize the exposed gelatined paper with cold water at 13 ° C for one minute and as soon as the paper is softened by water I return to prevent dust and air bubbles.
After this bath of one minute I remove the paper out of water and I drain a bit and I put it on the copper plate waiting under water.The paper is placed on the plate and I leave this set off the tray .
I wipe gently without too much pressure with paper towels the back of the paper to absorb excess solution and pressing slightly from the center to the edges to eliminate the air bubbles.
Now we can leave this copper - paper assembly resting under a glass plate about 15 minutes to complete adhering. ( In my first test i used a rubber roller ,but the results were disastrous because of too much pressure and the gelatin stayed sticked with the paper durind developping )
The general rule for adhering is not too much pressure only with paper towels from middle to the edges ( like for paper on plexiglas in the beginning about sensitizing).
Then is time to proceed to developpement, that’s mean : Remove the paper and eliminate unexposed gelatin
Here I have used hot water and some product to take off the wallpapers.
With a very soft brush, I applied this solution on the back of the paper and I waited a few minutes After that I put the plate in a tray with hot water (45 ° C) and stirring very gently for a few minutes.
Maybe it’s necessary to change the water to maintain the good temperature

I observed that when the paper is ready to take off, it appears a thin red margel under the paper on the edges. Then you must press gently with a soft brush to prevent detachment of gelatin. Now the paper can go easily as it slides on gelatin .This was the first step of the developping. Now i have to dissolve the unexposed resist.

I use a tray with hot water (45 ° C) and I filed the plate inside. Water will become yellow dissolving chromated gelatin .I do again this operation until the water becomes colorless.Then the developping step is over , I wipe the edges of coper plate with paper towels. I dry the plate with air fan during a few minutes and let dry the the gelatin during several hours before etching or overnight at stable temperature ;

Then i can etch the copper plate but i must protect the back and the edges with adhesive tape before ;i described this step of etching with iron perchloride in my last mail .

You can view two works .
They are not printed editions , but just a scan of the copper plates under a transparent I used often this way to see my works before printing on the etching press.That allows to see quickly the differents steps if i have to do somes corrections

For the viewone http://hervesachy.free.fr/pigment%20paper%...ing/viewone.jpg the time exposure was 10 min 30 sec. The etching starts with 39 ° b etching bath during 10 min then 50 min in 36 ° b etching bath.

For the viewtwo http://hervesachy.free.fr/pigment%20paper%...ing/viewtwo.jpg the time exposure was 8 min. The etching process with the 43 °b etcghing bath during 10 min,
then 10 min in 41° b , 15 min in 39 ° b , and last 90 min in the 36° b bath.
To stop the etching , i rinse the plates with a solution of chlorhydric acid

I think these two works are overexposed because the etching process starts really with 39 or 36 ° b iron perchloride baths ,despite this i am satisfied with these two works
I am going to try with a range of time exposure between 6 or 7 minutes to have a process of etching more progressive for the half-tones

I hope you understand well that i write .i used google translater to help me