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The Great Crusade > Tutorials > forgeworld powders


Title: forgeworld powders
Description: help needed


Lord_Mortirion - February 8, 2011 02:39 AM (GMT)
Just got some rust powder, but not too sure on how to use them.

Does anybody have any tips or techniques?

Whitehorn - February 8, 2011 10:20 AM (GMT)
The very place you bought them from :)

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Downloads/Prod...ing-powders.pdf

Lord_Mortirion - February 9, 2011 10:36 PM (GMT)
Yea found that lol. Rust is looking good now.

BigWill - February 10, 2011 02:13 PM (GMT)
Try this for rust.
Use a Dark Flesh basecoat then hit it with powder.
The best way I heard to apply it is to imagine you are painting continents on a little globe.
Then go look into MIG powders if ypu are serious about rust they have 5 different shades of it.
Also do not forget you can do what people did before they packaged the powders is to make your own with chalk pastels(not oil)

rabblerouser - February 21, 2011 03:53 AM (GMT)
I don't think the forgeworld powders are as nice as mig... the mig seem to be ground really finely

Also, if you don't want to spend so much, you can buy jars of ground pigment on the cheap at some casting or sculpture supply stores.

ShroudFilm - February 21, 2011 08:30 AM (GMT)
I JUST BOUGHT A CAR. HOW DO I DRIVE IT? :D

I've stayed well away from the powders, which is probably quite silly, just because I also have no idea how to use them.

Ilmarinen - February 21, 2011 10:53 AM (GMT)
QUOTE
HOW DO I DRIVE IT?

You're not kidding! :P

I don't know how to use the powders either, but this isn't a problem ...because I haven't got anything painted yet!!! :lol: :rolleyes: <_<

Cloud Runner - February 21, 2011 01:40 PM (GMT)
The FW masterclass book has some excellent tips on how to apply powders, which I used with ground chalks.

I have now got the FW powwders but haven;t tried them yet.

The best way to fix them on is to use proper fixative, but if you're a tight arse like me, you can use the following:

20 parts white spirit
1 part gloss varnish (Klear floor varnish is good for it)

the sipirits act as a carrier and eventually evapourate, but crucially they dissolve the pwders some waht.

Please note I haven't tried using the mix yet myself and have used White Spirit on it's own to settle the powders and then gone over the top (once dry) with gloss varnish to hold it in place.

Once the hoouse move is sorted and I have a proper play with the powders, I'll let you know how it works.



Hope that all helps :)

BigWill - February 22, 2011 10:15 PM (GMT)
I've been messing with them for the past year and pretty much have it down.
Just another tool in the bucket there is alot you can do with it.
Mix with plaster and acrylic resin medium sold by MIG(white glue it says works ,but not as well) to make wet mud.
Then put raw powder on top of that if you want old dried mud.
Just dust the model with powder then fix with odorless paint thinner(the same as MIG thinner for washes)which fixes the powder to the surface but can be washed off if too heavy.
MIG also sells pigment fixer which makes the dust permenant.
Thin with alot of thinner for streaks and rainmarks.

Just remember if you are using thinners the layer you are working on MUST be acrylic.
I use enamels on vehicles these days and have to spray a layer of Tamiya Clear before I do my work with filters and powders.

Filters you say? ;)
That's for another day.

Any questions please ask away.

Magos Explorator - February 23, 2011 02:53 AM (GMT)
Will, will spray varnish do for fixing the weathering pigments, or is thinner really necessary too? (And if so, do you have a link to any products you recommend?)

I found this on CMON, shame it is out of stock, as I need to order one or two other bits from them soon! http://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/paints-a...ment-fixer.html

(I did find the thinner but if I understand correctly, the fixer is what I probably want. The thinner I found is here: http://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/paints-a...for-washes.html )

Also, any experience with MIG rainmarks? http://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/paints-a.../rainmarks.html

Looks like it could be a useful tool for weathering: http://www.migproductions.com/minisite/Rai.../rainmarks.html

BigWill - February 23, 2011 09:41 PM (GMT)
This is a link to very good MIG weathering tutorials before he started his company
http://missing-lynx.com/rareworld.htm

For the fixer Get it on E-bay,or the kind of hobby shop that sells WW2 stuff.
MIG also has a new company called AK Interactive,good stuff there too
You could just always order direct too

MIG Productions
http://www.migproductions.com/

AK Interactive
http://ak-interactive.com/

Spray varnish does'nt really work that good,it seems to conceal(wash out) a good bit of the effect.

Regular odorless thinner like Mona Lisa brand will fix you powders for all purposes,unless you plan to handle the mini alot.
It is the exact same stuff as Mona Lisa(In the US Mona Lisa is a very good,mild thinner)
You want mild stuff so it is not so harsh on your paintjob.

But the fixer is the way to make it really really permenant.

I Love MIG Rainmarks it does'nt show as well on lighter paintjobs but on a Dark Grey or Olive Drab they look fantastic

Magos Explorator - February 24, 2011 01:10 AM (GMT)
Thanks very much! :D I think I will order from MIG direct.

So, to confirm:

1. Paint
2. Varnish
3. Pigments
4. Fix

?

BigWill - February 24, 2011 11:44 AM (GMT)
Yes but a high gloss will not work,it should be satin.
High Gloss is not porous enough and the powder just gets pushed around
High gloss is great however for oil paint weathering and decals
Tamiya Clear is the best acrlyic clearcoat to use.
But a can of Satin varnish would probally work too.
Rainmarks work best on a matt surface.

Those are the basic steps

I am going to make a detailed tutorial soon I think.

My steps for the advanced is
1)basecoat
2a)If I used enamel basecoat,I spray an acrlyic varnish like Tamiya
If I used acrlyic basecoat go to step 3
3)Enamel Filter(super thinned enamel or oil paint that tints the basecoat)
4)Spray a Layer of Future floor polish(acrlyic gloss varnish)
-The next two steps are if you use decals
*5)Decals
*6)Second Layer of Future to seal and hide the seams of the decals
7)spray 80% thinned Tamiya buff on lower hull for dust
8)Oil dot weathering for streaks and fading or Rainmarks if a dark paintjob.
9)Chipping and highlighting
10)Tamiya Clear
11)Weathering powders
12)Fixer

Magos Explorator - February 25, 2011 12:14 AM (GMT)
Thanks, this is very helpful. I am waiting on a few things to come back in stock on the CMON webstore then will place an order to include some of these MIG effects. After so many months without stuff, I am looking forward to getting to some painting again.

Gagoc TheAncient - February 26, 2011 08:26 PM (GMT)
BigWill could you please add using Chalks to your list, especially with White Spirits?

I got the FW advanced vehicle painting book looking for advanced tips for using chalk for weathering, and found there were none!

BigWill - February 27, 2011 09:34 PM (GMT)
Chaulk Pastels do indeed work,not as well as normal pigment but it does work.
There is a glue in the pastel that is not in the pigment.
But you grind it up or use coarse grit sandpaper to make the stick into a powder.
Then fix with odorless thinner or pigment fixer.
The oil pastels would not work for this,but they might be a good substitute for oil paint when you do dot weathering.
But I have'nt tried it might not stay like the paint.




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