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Title: REQUEST - AoBR and BfM headswaps?

ShroudFilm - February 2, 2009 01:30 AM (GMT)
I've got 30 AOBR and BFM marines which I want to pre-Heresify.

I've got enough MK6 and Chaos Warrior helms, but I don't want to wreck good minis on experimental procedures! What have people got for me?

Battle Brother Loken - February 2, 2009 01:47 AM (GMT)
file off the front and make iron helmets (the ones with the triangle face plates)
thats what i would do if i were you

BigWill - February 2, 2009 01:53 AM (GMT)
I do not know for true PH without a ton of converting but for quick and dirty I would think clip off the mk7 heads and drill a neck hole attach beaky head
Try one ,if you do not love it you only wasted 1 set of bits

or like BBL says use g/s to turn the mk7 helms into mk3

Apologist - February 2, 2009 09:26 AM (GMT)
The Macragge pattern Mark IIs work on these heads well might be an option.

Gagoc TheAncient - February 2, 2009 05:47 PM (GMT)
The way I did mine was; first remove the eagles, I wasn't doing EC; then I decided which models I was going to swap heads and seperated them.

To these potential swaps I first marked the top of the neck armour around the helmet, this is so I knew where the original head was. I've tried marking it with pen, pencil and cutting the outline with a knife; all had failings and successes.

I then chopped the top of the head off in line with the top of the neck armour. Now I've got bits of helmet that end just below the eyes. I'm sure I'll find a use for them!
By using the neck armour as a guide you miss the shoulder pads/pauldrons.

Next I cut about 1-2mm into the neck using the collar armour as a guide. I do it at this point as I found it hard to do later.

I took my GW drill and drilled down through the helmet to below the collar, centring the hole halfway across between the ears, though that is not an exact measurement. I then proceeded to enlarge the hole using larger drillbits, I used one about 1/4 of an inch as the largest and that may have been a bit too large.

You have to be careful when a drill starts cutting into the neck armour beyond where the helmet was.

With the larger drillbits I only needed to drill down to the level of the collar, the largest drill meets that cut, leaving the remainder of the helmet hanging at either side. I then just cut it away.

In order to fit a SM helmet you need to make room at the back and sides by thinning the neck armour down to around the thickness found on the standard kits.
Just be careful, it can be a bit brittle and pieces could break-off and then you're left with greenstuff repairwork.
To fit the helmet you may need to either fill or hollow out the neck to accomodate it.

If you want I can try to take some photo's at least of a body before the new helmet is fitted. They might help.

ShroudFilm - February 2, 2009 06:31 PM (GMT)
That would be great, Gagoc! :)

GreyWolf - February 3, 2009 07:52 AM (GMT)
Unfortunately, I do not have pics for you Shroud. :(
But I would highly recommend the Mk.VII -> Mk.III conversion Battle Brother Loken suggested; I've done the same with some BFM marines a friend gave me, and it requires minimum conversion work (which also means that there are very few opportunities for disaster to strike ;) ). The only other thing I would suggest is making some backpack and/or bolter swaps if you have the bits. I may be able to post some step-by-step pics this weekend, but I can't say for sure; even being able to touch a model these days is iffy for me.

Battle Brother Loken - February 3, 2009 02:50 PM (GMT)
here is the conversion i did
user posted image

Gagoc TheAncient - February 3, 2009 04:35 PM (GMT)
As promised, here's the pics.

user posted image
Left to right; an unconverted AoBR marine, one with head removed, and final conversion with fitted but missing head.

user posted image
Here they are from the back. As you can see the plastic covering the back of the necks of the two on the left are the model's own. But they are flatter on top of this piece than the one on the right.

user posted image
The first cut is made here. Straight across and forward, I used my GW razor saw but I was wary of cutting into the pauldrons.

user posted image
After the first cut the part of the helmet above the thick red line has been removed, so I cut into the neck along the lower red line with a craft knife. This second cut needs only to be a couple of millimetres deep at most. It helps get a clean edge at the neck.

user posted image
On the now flat surface you've initially cut, drill down into the body. Now the hole needs to be about halfway between the front of the neck and the back of the head, which is why I suggested marking out the back edge of the helmet.
The red cross is just to give you an idea of where you'll be placing the hole.

You now need to widen out this hole; like I said, I used progressively large drill bits, being careful to stay within the plastic of the neck. Too large a hole at this point can be a disaster.
The body in the middle shows how careful I was drilling into the body, whilst the right one demonstrates how Ive had to used a filler because I wasn't with that one.

I usually end up with the front of the neck being a thin layer of plastic of about 1-2mm thick. Now do you get that second cut?
I then remove the face and ribbed neck of the original helmet.

All I need to do then is widen the gap above the armour's collar into the piece at the back. I used tools from an old hobby tool, router bits, pink grinding stones and sand paper bits.
If you were off slightly with you're hole, now is the time to rectify and correct matters.

By having drilled into the body I have a bowl to place and position the new helmets neck into with little or no alteration to the helmet.

Does that help?

ShroudFilm - February 3, 2009 04:42 PM (GMT)
Excellent - I reckon my plastic-cutters will make short work of those heads!


Gagoc TheAncient - February 3, 2009 10:47 PM (GMT)
Let us know how you go.

Same applies to anyone else trying these methods; and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Kriegersen - February 3, 2009 11:19 PM (GMT)
hmmm, I see some Emps Kids been done soon :D

great tute, very simple. And Im sure a dremmil would make light work lighter! :lol:

Gagoc TheAncient - February 4, 2009 08:15 PM (GMT)
Just be careful Kreigersen, I think the plastic for the AoBR maries may be slightly more brittle than normal.

It's the main reason why I didn't use my Dremmel on them.

Kriegersen - February 5, 2009 12:04 AM (GMT)
I can see where your coming from dude, I will do a test mini and post it up soon ;)

ShroudFilm - May 11, 2009 03:31 PM (GMT)
I found the AOBR plastics to be a joy to work with... BFM was far harder and more likely to send my Dremel off-track and into some detail I wanted to keep! :rolleyes:

Pics coming soon, I've done 7 with MK6 heads and 3 with MK3.

Johnny_Hawkwind - August 15, 2009 08:46 AM (GMT)
Arise dead thread.

I have just been given some Rogue Trader marines and have bought the AoBR box to get the rulebook and learn to play the game. Did photos get taken Shroudfilm?

I am looking to do World Eaters and if I can use the bits I already have without spending a fortune that would be great.

Thanks in advance.

DaemonlordAbraxes - August 15, 2009 05:07 PM (GMT)
I have FW World Eaters Pads with the emblem on them, that i would be willing to trade you if you want them

Johnny_Hawkwind - August 15, 2009 08:25 PM (GMT)
QUOTE (DaemonlordAbraxes @ Aug 15 2009, 05:07 PM)
I have FW World Eaters Pads with the emblem on them, that i would be willing to trade you if you want them

I don't actually have anything to trade sadly. I am doing pre heresy though and aren't the FW ones chaos marked.

ShroudFilm - August 16, 2009 10:26 PM (GMT)
I don't have any pics yet - still waiting on an opportune moment to get hold of a camera! :rolleyes:

I will get Titus Pullo to bring them on Wednesday, and see what I can do for you all.

ShroudFilm - July 20, 2010 10:50 PM (GMT)
After a little prompting from Gagoc, I finally got some pics of the headswaps I did for Titus Pullo last year...! :D

user posted image
user posted image

I have more bits and I intend to do some more at some point, but I recall that at the time I got these boys down to a fine art - 14 minutes from the sprue to complete, including cleaning mould lines!

AFAIK these are also painting-in-progress Emperor's Children. More from TP when he gets them finished, I guess? ;)

Whitehorn - July 20, 2010 11:36 PM (GMT)
Very cool!

If you need any 1-on-1 tips, meet me in Cooper's with a knife and clippers, I'll show you the way ;)

ShroudFilm - July 21, 2010 09:15 AM (GMT)
When are you in the Coopers? Still got these CDs for you and Josh! :lol:

I'm semi-inspired to do more of these now actually, I need more IW for my Tactical squads so I can field more special weapons.

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